Kapeng Barako

This is the stuff that keeps a lot of us going in the morning. Coffee. Some people are coffee purists. Some people are the Starbucks kind. Northeast people (of the US that is) are the Dunkin’ Donuts kind. But I suspect most people don’t even know a lot about the coffee that they’re drinking. And neither did I. I didn’t even know the different kinds of coffee. I just knew of the places that there are certain climates that make the good coffee. What I found out was that just like wine there’s quite a few people that obsess about their coffee.
Here’s a couple of things I learned about coffee:
- There’s 4 major varieties Arabica, Robusta, Excelsa, and Liberica (aka barako). I’m sure most people have heard of Arabica because that pretty much dominates the market (i.e. your Starbucks).
- Buy coffee beans and keep them vacuum sealed. Oxygen breaks down the coffee and makes it go bad. And it goes bad quicker once it’s ground.
Filipinos are definitely coffee drinkers. I remember hearing about kapeng barako when I was growing up and I wanted to find out more about the Philippines and coffee. The Philippines being strategically placed in the Pacific was a major hub of commerce back in the day and like a lot of things the Philippines was once a major player in coffee industry. Now, Brazil has taken over the coffee world and produces a substantial percentage of the world’s coffee. Certainly just another blow to the once leading economy of Southeast Asia. The worst thing is that most Filipinos living in the Philippines don’t even know about the once thriving coffee production in the Philippines because they’re too wrapped up trying out the trendy imported places (i.e. Starbucks, Seattle’s Best, and Gloria Jeans). But that’s starting to dig deeper into the Filipino identity crisis and self-loathing. Let’s not go down that path.
During my trip to the Philippines, I picked up a book called Kapihan. Although this is published by Nescafe and they sure do push their product in this book, I still like how they captured a good chunk of the Filipino coffee story. It shows how the simple coffee bean brings people together. I also noticed that Filipinos drink instant coffee and they buy it in small amounts. By small amounts I mean 1 serving right before their drink it in the morning from their neighbor’s sari-sari store. This makes sense because of the cash flow problems that families face everyday. Nescafe is the brand of choice so they did a really good job in marketing to the Filipinos.
While in the Philippines, I asked around where I can get my hands on some kapeng barako. And all fingers pointed to Batangas. Thankfully, my best friend Jopey had a roommate that was in Batangas for the weekend and brought down 1 kilo barako beans! I’m very appreciative of that.
So what is barako? The word barako is some sort of male animal. My Tagalog isn’t great but barako definitely has connotations of masculinity. The coffee is called barako because of it’s strong taste and for the fact that the beans are bigger than the other varieties. This coffee is unlike anything that I’ve tasted and I love it! I’m certainly not a coffee expert but I know what tastes good to me. It’s certainly bold but it doesn’t have the acidity that I’ve tasted in other coffees which I assume contains Arabica beans.
Unfortunately, there’s no place that I know of that you can buy barako coffee from here in the US. I did find this website though http://www.gotbarako.com/. I haven’t bought anything from it yet so I can’t tell you either way. I’ll buy some when my supply is done and I’ll update.

Eat Filipino Food!


June 26th, 2008 at 10:21 pm
Just when I thought I got caffeine out of my system you got to make an interesting coffee-piece and pull me right back in ;p. I’ve been a coffee drinker, not by choice, growing up. As an adult however it went out of control. But you are absolutely right, I drink it but have no idea about the intricacies of it… hmmm interesting. I just know its good-stuff to dunk my pandesal into.
June 27th, 2008 at 8:27 am
Interesting. I hadn’t heard of barako before, but I’m certainly willing to give it a try. Please let me know if you order some from that site and how it turns out!
July 1st, 2008 at 3:29 am
Pao! Barako is actually the Tagalog word for “male pig.” And you’re right. Barako is also used to denote masculinity. In basketball, asserting your presence in the low-post would be “namamarako.” Shaquille O’Neal is a Barako. In the basketball sense, I mean… Hehehe.
July 1st, 2008 at 10:45 am
So wait…*paoix* is a namamarako?
July 4th, 2008 at 2:03 pm
yep.. love that coffee… you can actually buy some of that in SM mall now… ;o)
July 27th, 2008 at 8:21 pm
The variety of Coffea liberica grown in the Philippines is the Barako coffee. The first tree was planted in Lipa and Batangas became the leading coffee producer in all of Asia until the industry was devastated by the coffee rust disease in the 1990s. Today, Cavite grows more Barako trees than any other province.
Cafe de Lipa and Figaro pride themselves in Barako coffee. So, next time you are in the Philippines, get your coffee from these shops.
I just got back from a vacation in my home province of Batangas and brought a load of Barako to Florida! I wish you can smell it.
Edil